St
Mary Church,
Chilham TR 068 537
CANTERBURY
DIOCESE: HISTORICAL AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY
Tim Tatton-Brown's Survey 1993
LOCATION: The church lies at the end of a low ridge
at c. 150ft. above O.D. with the village square and castle to
the S.W.
DESCRIPTION: Though a church at Chilham is mentioned in Doomsday Book
(1086), the earliest visible above-ground remains here are the
transepts, which date from the very late 13th century or early 14th
century. These transepts do however suggest that they were built
flanking the tower of an earlier cruciform church, perhaps of the 12th
century, and it is possible that some 12th century masonry survives in
the piers on either side of the chancel arch. The awkward joint
between the east and of the nave clerestory and the gable wall above
the chancel area (mostly 19th cent. in its upper section) possibly
survives from the east side of an earlier tower. There are some later
medieval quoins here at the outer edge, and the scar for the earlier
chancel roof is visible (particularly on the north). All other work
east of this dates, however, from the 19th century. The rest of the
tower (to the west) must have been destroyed in the 15th century,
before the new nave was constructed.
The transepts, which both have angled buttresses were
probably added at the same time in the very late 13th century or early
14th century. All the windows in the north transept have been replaced
with Bath stone, which probably reflects the earlier tracery. In the
south transept the fine 3-light trefoil-headed 'lancet' south window
is original (though with Bath stone jambs), while the west window in
this transept still has its original early 14th century 2-light window
with a spherical triangle at its head. The east window in this
transept was replaced with a 3-light window in c. 1500.
Piscina's in the transepts suggest altars here. The north transept
roof is 19th century, while the south transept still has a fine 2-bay
crown-post roof with raised tie-beams of perhaps the late 14th/early
15th century.
During the 15th century, it was decided that to
completely replace the nave and aisles (and probably the crossing
tower), and new 4-bay arcades was built all the way to the chancel
arch ie. across the north and south transepts with a clerestory above.
This meant that the easternmost clerestory windows looked into the
transept roof-spaces, a clear indication that the rebuilding of the
transepts was also proposed. At the same time a new south porch was
built with a parvise chamber above, with rounded stair-turret on the
north-west. Externally the nave aisles (and porch) and clerestory
walls are embattled, though the latter seems to have been a (? re)
creation of the 19th century (the Petrie view of 1806 shows no
battlements on the upper wall). The aisle windows are all fine
Perpendicular ones with original glazing bars and some fragments of
medieval glass (apparently with armourical evidence to suggest that
some of it went in before 1461 - J. Newman B.of E. N.E. + E. Kent).
The tracery form can be compared with the windows in the nave of
Mersham church. The roof over the nave (lead-covered) can be compared
with Lyminge church, and is a low-pitched king-post roof with
queen-struts and purlins. The tie-beams sit on wall-posts on stone
corbels, with the 4 evangelists and angels with shields carved on
them. The eastern corbels only date from 1897 when the chancel arch
was rebuilt/strengthened. On the outside of the south aisle and porch
much of the window tracery was replaced with Bath stone and a cement
plinth (with some bricks beneath) was put on. A large drainage channel
was also dug. At the west end of the north aisle is a small blocked
doorway, while at its north-east corner a 19th century chimney flue
has been inserted.
The final major addition to the church was the large
western tower. This was constructed probably in the early 16th century
(Hasted mentions a legacy being given in 1534). Externally it has
flint and Caen/Rag chequer work with Ragstone plinth and quoins. There
is a 'Beacon' stair-turret on the south-east side, the turret had a
lead spirelet until removed in 1784, and round-headed windows with
square hood-moulds in the upper stage. The west window under the tower
is entirely 19th century (of Bath stone).
The chancel and chancel aisles date entirely from the
rebuilding by David Brandon in 1863. All dressings are in Bath stone
with heavy flintwork externally. Glynne (in 1846) mentions c.
13th century arch on the north side of the chancel, and there was
probably a chantry chapel on the north-east side (documented as being
dissolved in 1548). This was probably replaced by the unusual domical
chapel built in 1755 for the Colebrook family. On the south-side of
the chancel was the Digges chapel built in c. 1631. Earlier a
medieval chapel of St Anne is mentioned here. On its south side Petrie
(and other early views) show a large doorway on the west ( cf. the
doors at the contemporary Chilham Castle) and a large Venetian window
to the east. All these features were sadly swept away in 1883.
Virtually all the fittings in the church, except the many fine
monuments (see below), date from this restoration.
BUILDING MATERIALS: The main walls are of flint with dressings in Caen
(and some Reigate) stone. Kent Rag is also found in the west window of
the south transept, and the tower quoins and plinth; also in the
original transept buttresses.
All the later 19th century restorations were in Bath stone. Some
original glass in the nave windows.
EXCEPTIONAL MONUMENTS IN CHURCH: Many very fine post-Medieval
monuments in the church, see Lipscombe op. cit. inf.
and J. A. Newman B.of E "N.E.+E. Kent (3rd ed. 1983), 271-3.
CHURCHYARD AND ENVIRONS:
Size: Large area around church with extension down hill to N.E. still
in use.
Condition: Good, but many old trees (particularly Limes) destroyed in
1987 storm.
Building in churchyard or on boundary: Fine 1746 house to N.E. of
church.
Exceptional monuments: Early 17th cent. gravestone near S.E. corner of
church.
Ecological potential: Yes -
HISTORICAL RECORD (where known):
Earliest ref. to church: Domesday Book
Evidence of pre-Norman status (DM, DM, TR etc): ? Minster church with
Molash chapel attached.
Late med. status: Vicarage\appropriation): Appropriated c. 1385
+ vicarage endowed.
Patron: The honor and manor of Chilham, then in 1153 to the alien
priory of Throwley till 1414. Then to crown till given c. 1444
to Sion Priory till 1540. Then to the manor of Chilham.
Other documentary sources: Test. Cant. (E. Kent, 1907),
81-3 mentions chapels chancels of St Anne (1476), St John-the
-Baptist, (1505), and many lights. Also 'to the leading of the church
of Chilham' (1492). There was also a chantry chapel (? on north-east)
dissolved in 1548. Hasted VII (1798), 287-292, who mentions a legacy
of 1534 to the building of the tower.
SURVIVAL OF ARCHAEOLOGICAL DEPOSITS:
Inside present church: ? Good
Outside present church: ? Good, but drainage ditch around several
areas outside.
RECENT DISTURBANCES\ALTERATIONS:
To structure: New Dormer made in N.W. side of S. Transept roof, after
clerestory window opened up in 1990.
To floors: New "facility" made in S. porch, and pipes
trenches put in.
Quinquennial inspection (date\architect): June 1990 Andrew Clague.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND HISTORICAL ASSESSMENT:
The church and churchyard: A fine large church? cruciform originally,
rebuilt in the 15th century (nave) and early 16th century (West
tower), though the transepts are earlier dating from c. 1300.
The chancel and aisles were entirely rebuilt in 1863.
The wider context: This church contains some of the finest monuments
in the County, though sadly the 17th and 18th century chapels going
with many of them were destroyed in 1863.
REFERENCES: J.M. Lipscombe 'The Chilham Mansalea', Arch. Cant.
102 (1985), 135-147. S.R. Glynne, Churches of Kent (1877),
132-3. He visited in 1846.
Guide Book: Reprinted 1975 (Anon).
Plans & early drawings: View from S. in Z. Cogens, A Tour
through the Isle of Thanet (1793), 222. Also H. Petrie's view from
S.E. in 1806.
DATE VISITED: 13th April
1993
REPORT BY: Tim Tatton-Brown